This free lavender planting planner gives you a lavender plan with variety, drainage and hedge spacing. Enter a few simple details about your garden, and the tool works out a clear plan you can follow straight away, without any sign-up or special knowledge.
To use the tool, start with the size of your garden or the number of beds you have. Real numbers give real plans: a plan for a tiny balcony bed is very different from a plan for a large backyard plot, even when both gardens grow the same crops.
Next, answer the questions about your garden conditions, such as sun, distance from the house, or shade hours. These details are what turn a generic list into a plan for your garden. Two gardens in the same town can need different plans, because one sits behind a warm wall and the other sits in a windy, shady corner.
Read the results slowly and write down the first three jobs. A plan only helps if it leaves the screen and reaches the garden. A short list on the fridge or by the back door beats a long printout filed away and forgotten.
Work through the plan one job at a time, in the order given. Garden plans work best when jobs happen in sequence: prepare the soil before you sow, sow before you feed, and harvest before crops go over. Skipping ahead usually creates extra work later.
Repeat the plan on a regular rhythm. Gardens change every week as plants grow, seasons shift, and weather turns. Re-running the tool with fresh numbers each month, or each season, keeps the plan honest and matched to what is actually happening outside.
Lavender dies from wet feet far more often than from cold. A plant in sharp, gritty soil on a sunny slope survives winters that kill the same variety in rich, wet clay, so drainage is the first choice, not the variety.
Prune after flowering, cutting back to green growth but never into old brown wood, which rarely re-sprouts. A yearly trim keeps the plant dense and round, while an unpruned plant turns woody, splits open, and dies in the middle within a few years.
For a hedge, space plants about thirty centimetres apart so they knit into one line in two seasons. For single plants in pots, give each one a wide pot with drainage holes and a gritty mix, and water only when the top of the mix feels dry.
A common mistake is planning only for spring. Spring is exciting, but summer watering, autumn clearing, and winter protection matter just as much. A year-round plan, even a simple one, keeps the garden productive in every season instead of only in the first warm weeks.
Keep your basic tools ready so the plan is easy to follow: a trowel, a fork, a watering can, gloves, and a bucket cover most garden jobs. Sharp, clean tools make work faster and kinder to plants, because clean cuts heal well and dirty cuts can spread disease from one plant to the next.
Keep notes as you go. Write down what you planted, when it went in, and how it did. Next year, those notes turn a good plan into a great one, because you will know which crops loved your soil and which ones struggled in your shade or wind.
Remember that this tool gives general garden guidance, not advice for a farm or a commercial crop. Your local soil, weather, and varieties all shift real results. Use the plan as a strong starting point, watch your plants, and adjust over a few weeks until the routine fits your garden.