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See your trail before you walk it
An elevation profile turns a flat route line into a story you can read at a glance. It shows where the trail climbs, where it rests, and where the hard parts hide. A route that looks short on a map can hold a long, steep climb in the middle, and a profile makes that climb visible before your legs meet it. That is why experienced hikers check the profile first and the distance second.
This free plotter draws that profile from your own points. Type each point as distance and elevation, one per line, and the tool draws the climb and descent on a chart. It also totals the climb, the descent, the highest point, and the lowest point. If you have a recorded track, you can paste GPX text instead and the tool will pull the track points out of it and plot the same chart.
How to use the plotter
Start with the points you know. Write the distance from the start in kilometres, then the elevation in metres, with a space between them. For example, 0 800 means the trailhead sits at 800 metres. Then 2 950 means that after two kilometres you are at 950 metres. Add as many points as you have: trail junctions, summits, lakes, and the finish. Press the button and the chart appears.
The chart draws your points in order and fills the area under the line, so steep parts look steep and gentle parts look gentle. The numbers below the chart give you the facts: total distance, total climb, total descent, highest point, and lowest point. Use the total climb, not just the highest point, to judge effort. A trail that climbs 300 metres, drops 200, and climbs 300 again asks for 600 metres of climbing, even though the summit is only 400 metres above the start.
Using a GPX track
Many phones and watches record a GPX file when you walk. That file holds a long list of track points with latitude, longitude, and elevation. If you open the file as text and paste it into the GPX box, this tool reads those points, works out the distance between them, and plots the full profile. This is the best way to review a route you already walked, or a route a friend shared with you.
Keep in mind that GPS elevation can jump around by a few metres, especially under trees or near cliffs. Small wiggles in the chart usually mean noisy GPS data, not real ups and downs. Look at the big shape: the long climbs, the long descents, and the flat rests. Those are what matter for planning water, food, and time.
A worked example
Take a simple route: 0 km at 800 m, 2 km at 950 m, 5 km at 1200 m, 7 km at 1050 m, and 10 km at 1400 m. The tool reports 10 km of distance, 550 metres of climb, and 150 metres of descent. The climb comes from 150 plus 350, and the descent is the 150-metre drop in the middle. A hiker who only looked at the start and finish would expect 600 metres of climb and would miss the extra effort of the middle dip.
Planning tips
Plan water stops at the tops of long climbs, not at the bottoms, because you will be thirstiest when you arrive. Plan lunch on a flat or downhill stretch where you can rest without losing height you must climb again. If the profile shows most of the climb in the first third, start early and save energy for the descent, which is hard on knees. If the climb sits at the end, keep food and daylight in reserve for it.
Compare profiles when you choose between two routes to the same place. The shorter route is not always the easier one. A longer route with a steady, gentle climb often feels easier than a short route with one very steep wall. The profile lets you see that trade before you commit.
Frequently asked questions
How many points do I need? Two points give a single slope, but five to ten points give a useful shape. Add a point wherever the slope changes: at the top of a climb, the bottom of a descent, or a flat rest.
Why does my total climb differ from a guidebook? Guidebooks often round, and GPS tracks add small ups and downs. Both numbers are estimates. Use the profile for planning effort, and treat any single number as approximate.